While Europe can be regarded as a single market with many shared trends and attitudes toward makeup, some differences between countries do exist. For example, German women are more highly receptive to hypoallergenic products than in the rest of the region. Multi-functionality and the migration of anti-aging benefits from skin care into makeup are two of the most important trends that are prevalent throughout the region. Meanwhile, the rise of the “selfie” trend has hugely impacted consumers’ attitude toward makeup, especially among the younger generation.


According to Mintel, the UK was the largest European makeup market in 2014, valued at more than $2.6 billion—nearly 33% larger than the No. 2 market, Germany ($1.9 billion). Makeup sales in Italy and France are similar at $1.6 billion and $1.5 billion, respectively, followed by Spain, $874 million. Kantar Worldpanel affirms that makeup is used by just over half of British women and many apply it twice daily. However, the most enthusiastic users of makeup are the Russians and Poles, with three out of four makeup users, who also apply products more frequently, averaging more than twice-daily usage.


The reasons why women wear makeup vary by country. For example, 64% of Russian women put on makeup before going out to work or school, compared with just 40% of British; 39% of Germans and 31% of Poles. However, Polish women are more likely to put on makeup when they are on their way out, suggesting that they touch up frequently throughout the day. This ties in with their view that wearing makeup makes them more beautiful (68%).


In terms of the brands European women use, there is a lot of variety by country. In Russia and Poland, direct sales brands Avon and Oriflame are favorites, with a strong following also for Maybelline and Max Factor. Italian women much prefer home-grown brands, which include Kiko (also expanding to other countries including the UK), Pupa, Deborah and Botega Verde. Similarly, French women have a preference for native brands led by Yves Rocher, Gemey, L’Oréal, Bourjois and Sephora. In the UK, British brands Boots No7 and 17 lead women’s usage, with Rimmel London also in close contention. Loyalty to a particular brand tends to be high across the region, with nearly half of all Europeans always buying the same brand. In addition, Russians are more likely to seek out quality when choosing makeup brands.


Two Dominant NPD Themes

Canadean’s research confirms consumers’ desire for easy to use, convenient products, with 47% of European women citing the simplicity of using a single product as the biggest benefit of multi-functional beauty products. This trend is marked within face makeup with the launch of multi-tasking products such as bareMinerals Prime Time BB Primer-Cream that smooths the skin and protects with the addition of SPF30 while adding a hint of color.


Another example is Estée Lauder’s Double Wear All Day Glow BB Moisture Makeup, which contains brighteners and perfectors in a vitamin-enriched formulation with SPF 30.


Anti-aging features are commonplace, with technologies borrowed from the facial skin care sector.


“This creates new opportunities for brands to implement it into categories in which it hasn’t yet been established,” explained Jamie Mills, associate analyst, Canadean.


For example, 100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Pomegranate Oil Anti Aging Lipstick uses fruit pigments to keep lips soft and youthful with the addition of anti-oxidants and vitamins. Another product is Paese’s Hydrating Powder with Collagen, a powder compact offering full coverage, a silky consistency and a long-lasting effect.


Selfies Fuel Sales

A new breed of celebrity is influencing consumers’ attitudes toward wearing makeup and the kind of products they seek. Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé and Cara Develigne are inspiring the “selfie” generation of women who are conscious of looking camera-perfect for any occasion. According to NPD Group, this is fueling sales of premium face, eye and lip makeup, with foundations, primers and highlighters putting on the most growth.


Earlier this year, a new term, “strobing,” emerged as the UK’s hot new makeup trend; driving women to spend more on highlighters as a new way of accentuating the face. As a result, according to NPD Group, sales of highlighters jumped 48.5% for the eight months ended Aug. 31, 2015; while sales of prestige makeup rose 14.3% during the same period. Leading the strobing trend are brands such as Bobbi Brown and Maybelline, not with new products, but by promoting their existing highlighting and contouring lines.


However, there is a dark side to all this face time. In a study conducted by Unilever for its Dove Self-Esteem Project, researchers found the average girl spends 12 minutes preparing for each selfie and two-thirds of girls said they felt more attractive online than in real life.


Perhaps the most image-based social platform is Instagram, where consumers can edit and enhance their photos electronically using filters. Canadean’s Mills said Instagram is creating opportunities for beauty brands to use this concept in their positioning.
One example is Sephora’s Colorful Eyeshadow Filter Palettes, which were inspired by popular filters found on image apps and Instagram.


Sephora’s Overcast Filter Palette has cool, breezy tones for more smoky looks, while the Sunbleached Filter palette imparts softer, light-filled shades.


“From a formulation perspective, opportunity exists to explore approaches which can replicate professional results and expand the photoshopping concept beyond images and into real life,” asserts Mills.


Inspiration comes from popular celebrity trends, such as contouring, which is used to emphasize bone structure. Marc Jacobs’ #Instamarc Contour Powder, described as a  “perfecting filter in a compact,” and Dior’s Star Foundation based on professional illuminating and makeup techniques. The formulation contains “light pulsion” technology to disperse light across the face, making it more photogenic.


Selfie-inspired products are just the tip of the iceberg and likely to gain appeal with consumers looking for something more than an improvement to their social networking profile and can be applied to their everyday life.


As always, brands in the beauty business will adapt their offerings to the latest fashion trend.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com